47 Brake Drum

[<mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

---- Mark Battesby <a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> Well guys its been another week and again I took all of your advise except 
>cutting the hub in half idea . I dont know whetre I could get another after 
>all it is a 47. Hub is still stuck so if anyone near buy want to stop by and 
>take a look for yourself  Ill tell you where I live. 
>   3774 Kansas dr
>   Santa Rosa
>   California 95405
>   7075231292
>   7073279645  thank you for all your advise
>   OK.  This may sounds a bit weird ( LOT Weird)   If you can soak the whole 
>drum in a mixture of atf and paint thinner.  50 50 mix.  Or spray it in thu 
>the drum lip so the it get on the shoes.  Soak it really good.  Let it soak a 
>couple of days.  While soaking it thump it the drum with a hammer pretty good 
>and keep doing this a few times a day and then try pulling the the drum with 
>your puller.The shoes are probly rusted to the  drum.  Good luck...    Put 
>pleny of the mix in it.,  Maybe a few times a day for a couple of day and keep 
>trying to pull it.
> 
it's 
> > made you so far. 
> > 
> > If your car is out the door and over a cliff already, 
> > so be it (sorry to hear that this wil l be the cause of 
> > the divorce), but if the car still has a chance with 
> > you, perhaps there's still hope that we can help you 
> > work this out to completion? That's what we're all 
> > here for as far as I know. 
> > 
> > 
> > Question: 
> > 
> > Where do you live? 
> > 
> > Perhaps there's someone nearby that can spare some 
> > time to come over and scratch their head and put some 
> > eyes on it? I am never surprised when someone else 
> > looks at it a little differently than I do. We have 
> > the IMPERIAL HIGHWAY (located on the club website 
> > under MAILING LIST) that shows people by geographic 
> > region that have explicitly offered to help, although 
> > not all are neccessarily qualified on really tough 
> > rear axle/drum problems. Perhaps there is a local 
> > human resource that's been overlooked? 
> > 
> > Sometimes it just takes an alternate approach? 
> > 
> > ; One option that I discounted because my method always 
> > worked but would try if I got mad at the drum would be 
> > to re-assemble, cinch the locknut down in a way that 
> > it was threaded onto the axle and fixed in place, but 
> > not tight. Drive the car around at low speeds 
> > (careful!), and see if the weight of the car, 
> > vibration, and so forth will work on it. Perhaps some 
> > penetrating oil too? 
> > 
> > 
> > Another way to go would be to look into local truck 
> > service places. Older trucks (I think) may have used 
> > such drums, and you may find someone at one of those 
> > places that has some experience or different 
> > tools/techniques? I encourage you to do some poking 
> > around on this and not let this seized part get your 
> > goat. 
> > 
> > The thing is just stuck. OK. Probably been on there 
> > since the day it was assembled or some such, and who 
> > knows? Perha ps water or something "wrong" got in 
> > there, compounding your problems. I again submit that 
> > you are now down to a battle of the part vs. your 
> > patience. 
> > 
> > This IS solvable. There are plenty of rear-ends 
> > around for most of our cars that you can swap out if 
> > it's just not going to work. The challenges that 
> > you're facing are exactly the things that all of the 
> > gomers that don't work on cars fail to realize when 
> > they admire a car like yours and think that an old car 
> > is just like a new one. 
> > 
> > If it was easy, everyone would have an old car. 
> > 
> > Look out the window. Not so many chrome bumpers these 
> > days.... You are winning your stripes this week. 
> > Keep going!!!! 
> > 
> > 
> > -K 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- Mark Battesby wrote: 
> > 
> > > well I took all of yo ur advise guys. I went out and 
> > > got the right puller . I have a very powerful 
> > > compressor em-glow . Put on the impact tool . I 
> > > heated of the area that I was told to with 
> > > torch, and worked on the hub all fricken day . 
> > > Didn't move one bit !!. I am convinced it isn't ever 
> > > coming off . So I will put the wheel back on and 
> > > even though its a great looking car all original 47 
> > > , I will drive it to the coast and right off cliff 
> > > where it belongs. This car has been kicking my ass 
> > > for two months now and now hate it . I cant imagine 
> > > what is keeping this hub on but I have tried 
> > > everything.I even tried a 10 ' long scaffolding bar 
> > > with all my weight it lifted the car in the air 
> > > and still no movement. I'm done . I am so sick of 
> > > people saying to me wow I have never seen that 
> > > happen before. well I have more times then I can 
> > > count. who am I I am the guy that can fix everybody 
> > > else stuff, but can never fix my own.Evey time I 
> > > work on this car it gets worse and worse you 
> > > wouldn't believe it and less you saw the list 
> > > Its not the car its me the only thing that hasn't 
> > > happened is the car falling off the jack stands and 
> > > crushing me below it . well I still have to put the 
> > > wheels back on so i guess it could happen 
> > > Dick Benjamin wrote: 
> > > Kenyon is correct - the tapered axle design 
> > > depends on the friction between 
> > > the tapered axle end and the cone shaped inner 
> > > surface of the hub to prevent 
> > > the hub from moving on the axle end under the 
> > > terrific torque of the engine 
> > > - if you lubricate these surfaces, you will sooner 
> > > or later b reak the tip 
> > > off the axle, in addition to causing noise every 
> > > time you reverse the 
> > > polarity of the torque applied to the rear wheels. 
> > > This will also wear out 
> > > the woodruff key rapidly, ruining the inner mating 
> > > groove in the hub. 
> > > 
> > > The shop manual on most cars with this design makes 
> > > this point very strongly 
> > > - NEVER lubricate this surface - just assemble the 
> > > parts dry and clean. 
> > > 
> > > Difficulty in getting the hub off is usually caused 
> > > by an inadequate tool, 
> > > or poor procedure. Using steady force on the puller 
> > > center hex is the wrong 
> > > way to go - the proper way is to apply impact force 
> > > to the "dogbone" shaped 
> > > knocker handle that comes with the tool, using a 3 
> > > pound hammer and strong 
> > > blows. Heating the hub of the drum will also help, 
> > > but usually isn't 
> > > required. If the tool isn't up to the job, see if 
> > > you can find a Snap-On 
> > > brand puller at your local tool rental yard, - and 
> > > allow the car to sit with 
> > > the enormous pulling force on it overnight - often 
> > > the temperature cycle 
> > > will cause the hub to pop loose in the middle of the 
> > > night! 
> > > 
> > > Often jacking up the opposite side of the car, then, 
> > > taking advantage of the 
> > > play in the parts, pulling out on the opposite wheel 
> > > and then slamming it 
> > > back into the car will transmit enough shock through 
> > > the axle to cause the 
> > > subject hub to pop loose, if it has enough force on 
> > > it. 
> > > 
> > > Dick Benjamin 
> > > 
> > > -----Original Message----- 
> > > From: mailing-list-own er@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On 
> > > Behalf Of Kenyon Wills 
> > > Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 5:57 PM 
> > > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > Subject: Re: IML: Rear drum pulling made easy 
> > > 
> > > I am traveling and can't research as I should. 
> > > 
> > > Read reassembly instructions CAREFULLY and 
> > > COMPLETELY 
> > > before applying grease anywhere in the rear spindle 
> > > where the drum goes on. I think that there is a 
> > > strong warning against doing this. Further details 
> > > are yours to research. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > -Kenyon 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
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